Dunnuck: “Incredibly Delicious” Châteauneuf

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    2020 Domaine Baptiste Hillaire La Part Des Anges Chateauneuf-du-Pape 750 ml

    Retail: $75

    $65 13% off per bottle

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    A Marquee Name Among Boutique Rhône Producers

    In 2004, winemaker Olivier Hillaire had just carried Châteauneuf-du-Pape’s Domaine des Relagnes to the peak of its power, earning the estate some of its highest scores ever. But in 2006, the owner decided to sell—and with some of the area’s finest old vines suddenly on the market, Hillaire didn’t hesitate.

    He knew the Relagnes property better than anyone, and snagged its best plots. Creeping up on two decades later, the Grenache and Syrah from those vines shine in his son Baptiste’s La Part des Anges—a deep, intense, ageworthy testament to the Hillaire name’s esteemed status in the Southern Rhône.

    Rhône expert Jeb Dunnuck calls himself a big fan of the Hillaire estate’s “ripe, sexy, lusty Grenache driven wines,” and La Part des Anges more than lives up to that description. Driven by 80% Grenache from 60-year-old vines, it comes out swinging, offering a nose overflowing with bold black fruits and dried roses, accented by secondary tones of cola, pipe tobacco, and cracked pepper.

    Upon tasting it from barrel, Dunnuck called it “a complex, beautifully balanced, impressive wine.” When he returned to it a year later, he dubbed it “incredibly delicious.”

    Baptiste has made wine alongside his father for years, gaining an intimate understanding of their land. With his personal label, he proves that he’s inherited the winemaking prowess that’s enthralled critics for years.
    Hillaire’s eight hectares of vineyards sit on Châteauneuf’s famous galet roulés, which retain heat from the afternoon sun and release it overnight, letting the grapes ripen slowly to perfection. The wine rested in stainless-steel vats, preserving its fresh-fruit character, and today it’s a wonderfully balanced bottle that will continue developing beautifully for at least another decade.