2020 Domaine Lou Frejau Chateauneuf-du-Pape Rhone 750 ml

High in the northern end of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, one of the great wines of France is made: Château de Beaucastel. It’s an icon of quality in organic winemaking, with the pricing and prestige to match.

But the magic of Beaucastel’s stony terroir doesn’t end at the property line.

Domaine Lou Fréjau’s Châteauneuf-du-Pape is made right next door to Beaucastel, from slightly older vines. It too is organic, and costs half as much—but you probably haven’t heard of Fréjau because they only make about 5% as much wine as their iconic neighbor.

Jeb Dunnuck called Fréjau’s 2020 “terrific and certainly an outstanding wine,” adding, “its purity of fruit is top-notch.” Our tasting panel loved it too: It’s the perfect example of a super-traditional, insiders’ Châteauneuf for a very fair price. 

“Fréjau” is the Provençal word for the region’s smooth, polished river stones, which abound at this estate. A family business for over five generations, the domaine has also been fully organic since 2007 and certified as of 2010. It’s totally traditional: The wines are raised in neutral wood foudres for 12 months, and the cuvée contains all eight red varieties authorized in Chateauneuf—even rarities like Muscardin and Terret Noir.

This 2020 comes from the climats of La Bertaude, Bois Lauzon, La Gardiole, and Les Bedines, two of which are adjacent to Beaucastel’s parcels in Coudoulet and Chapouin. What’s more, the average age of Fréjau’s vines was 67 years in 2020—about five years older than the average at Beaucastel. Less than 1,000 cases are made each year.

This is a superb Châteauneuf for drinking now and through the rest of the decade.