2020 Mchenry Hohnen Chardonnay Laterite Hills Margaret River 750 ml

McHenry Hohnen is one of the hottest producers in Margaret River, one of the greatest Chardonnay-growing regions in the world. On the strength of their 96-point 2020 Laterite Hills—one of the most impressive, serious Chardonnays for the price we’ve seen—they’ll be a coveted name in the US soon, as well.

It blew away Australia’s top wine publication, Halliday Wine Companion, to the point that their critic was reduced to sentence fragments: “Wowsers. This is super-serious. Unbelievable value for money…speechless.”

Thanks to biodynamically farmed fruit and minimal-intervention winemaking, there’s a striking, citrusy intensity here, all married to discreet richness that is a hallmark of the world’s finest Chardonnay. It will continue to develop beautifully for at least a decade, and as you savor that last glass in 10 years, you won’t believe what you paid for it.

The beauty of this Chardonnay is no mystery once you set eyes on Margaret River. The maritime-influenced Australian region is practically Napa Valley on the ocean, and that proximity to the sea cools the grapes, which bathe in copious amounts of sunshine all season long. Even Robert Mondavi was so convinced of the area’s potential that he flirted with buying property there in the early 1970s.

The Laterite Hills cuvée is made up of four biodynamically farmed vineyards: Hazel's (planted 1998), Calgardup (planted 2006), Burnside (planted 1981), and Chapman (planted 1997). All are planted to the Gingin clone, brought to Australia from UC Davis in 1957. Gingin gives loose bunches peppered with small berries, resulting in elegant, concentrated wines. True to form, the winery describes 2020 as a perfect but dry season that gave tiny and light bunches with small berries.