2021 Adegas Tollodouro Pontellon Albarino Rias Baixas Spain 750 ml

Very few Albariño producers have the geographic advantages of Adegas Tollodouro—which explains why so few produce wines like Adegas Tollodouro.

The winery sits six miles inland from the Atlantic Ocean, near the Portuguese border in cool-climate Rías Baixas. But unlike many of their neighbors—who battle bracing winds from the sea and humidity from the nearby Miño River—Tollodouro’s vineyards perch above the chilly dampness below, on south-facing hillsides that afford them perfect ripening conditions.

The result is the 2021 Pontellón, a dynamite white wine that takes Albariño’s sea-spray edge and adds an open personality highlighting juicy white peach and crunchy pear. It’s a terroir-driven stunner that still slots in nicely as a Tuesday-night alternative. 

Adegas Tollodouro is located in the southernmost region of Galicia’s Rías Baixas, in the prized subregion of O Rosal. There, the vines overlook the Miño River from vantage points ranging from 350 to 1,150 feet of elevation.

Although they’re protected from the battering winds and fog that slow ripening in vineyards down the slope, Albariño from O Rosal still bears an oceanic influence, and the resulting wines bear the saline minerality and gorgeous texture that set bottles from Rias Baixas apart. The Atlantic plays an important role, prolonging the growing season and allowing the grapes to develop complex layers of flavor without sacrificing any of their beautiful natural acidity.

Spindrift essence is the hallmark of Rías Baixas Albariño, and O Rosal and its warm climate bring out gorgeously floral, white-flower inflections in the grape. Mix that in with the bright, fresh, clean mouthfeel that lifts the wine through the finish and you’ve got a singular charisma that’s in every sip of this 2021 Adegas Tollodouro Pontellón.