2021 Bodegas Manzanos 1890 Vinedo Singular Rioja 750 ml

Rioja has a reputation as a historic, perhaps stodgy, winegrowing area. But visit these days and you quickly realize the region is one of the most dynamic, exciting places to make wine in all of Europe. The emblem of that change and energy, the Revolución? Garnacha.

At one point, the Garnacha grape was the dominant variety across a wide swath of Rioja. But during the 1980s, much of it was ripped out in favor of fashionable Tempranillo—no matter what suited the site best. Now, ambitious winemakers are seeking out old Garnacha vines and making some of the most thrilling wines out of those plots. Some of the most expensive, too: Palacios’ Quiñón de Valmira will set you back north of $400.

That’s partially because any old Garnacha vineyard only survived because the wine it produced was absolutely exceptional—and that’s true for the parcel behind the 2021 Bodegas Manzanos Manzanos 1890 Viñedo Singular. The “Viñedo Singular” in its name is a new formal designation for single vineyard bottlings, and Manzanos has a gem in this site.

The vines here, pruned in the old goblet style, are planted at over 1,300 feet of elevation. The vineyard faces east, which limits the baking sun in the summer—perfect for thinner-skinned Garnacha—and creates long hang-times and measured ripening. The soils are well drained and packed with pebbly rocks, sending roots deep. Yields are low.

The entire vineyard is less than six acres, and Manzanos picks their meagre crop at perfect ripeness, getting both rich fruit and delightful vibrancy out of their grapes. After fermentation, the best lots are selected for this bottling, which ages in French oak for a year before bottling. The result is just gorgeous—a wine that we’re opening at any excuse. It’d be a brilliant pairing for a smoky white bean, tomato, and chorizo stew, or a succulent lamb chop like in Spain, but a glass with leftover meatloaf is pretty damn satisfying, too.