2022 Davino Vinalia x Davino Feteascǎ Albǎ Dealu Mare Romania 750 ml

Let’s face it: Not many people—even seasoned sommeliers—spend a ton of time thinking about Romanian wine. But boy, could that change fast. Romania is part of an ancient vinicultural tradition, and their top wineries are making stunning wines. And their affordable prices reflect the region’s economics way more than the quality in the glass.

Take Davino, which is “Romania’s wine aristocracy, consistently one of the country’s very top wineries,” according to Master of Wine Caroline Gilby, in the defining book on the region. Decanter declared “the famed Davino winery needs little introduction.” 

The Feteascǎ Albǎ shows off their particular genius: It’s a bright, zesty white wine that will thrill lovers of high-end Sancerre or Chablis, with complexity and personality that’s exceptionally rare for the price. 

When Davino was founded in 1997, it was only the third privately held winery created since the revolution in ‘89. The rest were state-run cooperatives. Since the beginning, they realized that the path to success was to prove how good Romanian wine could be. Quality defines everything they do, and they make a stunning example of Feteascǎ Albǎ (branded here in partnership for their American importer) one of the most important heirloom grape varieties in the country.

We paired our first bottle with a plate of grilled shrimp that had been tossed in a mix of olive oil, lemon juice, and a ton of fresh herbs. The combination was brilliant. A second showed just as well with oregano-rubbed chicken grilled to golden perfection.