2022 Fantesca Estate Chardonnay Russian River Valley 750 ml

Drop the name Heidi Barrett to a collector, then brace for the barrage of accolades—and usually some crushing prices. 

She’s the “Queen of Cult Cabernet.” The “Wine Diva of Napa Valley.” The genius behind legendary wines from Dalla Valle and Grace Family—not to mention the record-breaking 1992 Screaming Eagle that sold at auction for half a million bucks.

No doubt about it, Heidi Barrett makes serious wines.

And while she’s best known for Cabernet, she also has a masterful touch with Chardonnay—both with her own label La Sirena and also at Fantesca Estate, one of the few wineries in California she still consults for. Their 2022 Russian River Chardonnay is a wine that’s pure California, a throwback to the great Montelena Chards that put California on the map in the Judgement of Paris tasting.

One thing that Heidi Barrett has in spades is connections, built over decades as one of California’s superstar winemakers, and she taps those for Fantesca’s superlative ‘22. Sourcing from a few different sites, and a mix of clones, gives Barrett plenty of material to work with in the winery and for blending in the cellar. 

Barrett has long been known as a master blender, which has served her well in her high-profile winemaking gigs. She compares the art of blending to adding layers of color to a painting—which makes perfect sense given the influence of her artist mother and winemaker father.

The grapes are picked when gorgeously ripe, with succulent fruit and plenty of texture—but Barrett blocks malolactic fermentation to add a Chablisienne influence to the very Golden State bottle. It’s a beautiful touch that keeps the rich wine fresh enough to work at the table, and a small touch of new French oak (just 16%) adds a bit of polish and panache.

It pours golden in the glass, and your first impression is of aromas of acacia flowers, butterscotch, and a bounty of apples—with a kiss of chamomile and hazelnut. The mouthfeel is weighty and juicy with nutty layers, balanced by citrus, stone fruit, and a kiss of acidity. This practically begs for rich cream sauces or a perfectly ripe cheese, but it’s a great pairing with a patio on a warm spring day, as well.