2023 Berryessa Gap Vineyards Albarino Winters Highlands 750 ml

California’s viticultural history is a story of old-world varieties let loose on an ideal climate for growing grapes. And like its French forefathers Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, Albariño— like most transplants into the Golden State—thrives in California as well.

Probably the most thrilling example we’ve tasted from the state comes from Berryessa Gap Vineyards, whose 94-point star bottling is grown in the brand-new Winters Highlands AVA. 

And while the appellation might be new, the Berryessa Gap has been making wine from the region for over two decades—recognizing the potential of the area long before it was formally recognized. The Winters Highlands are on the eastern side of Napa’s Vaca mountain range—not far from Lake Berryessa, which lends its name to the winery. 

Days here are warm but tempered by cool, breezy nights, and the region has gained acclaim for its early commitment to Iberian grape varieties like Tempranillo and Albariño.

For this bottling, Berryessa Gap picks their Albariño early—at 18 brix—because they want to preserve the natural zip and energy that defines the greatest examples of the variety, and their terroir means the grapes already have plenty of flavor. It takes three different picks to bring everything in and ensure consistent ripeness, before bunches are pressed in a modern pneumatic bladder press, which gently extracts the juice.

The wine is fermented in stainless steel and then aged in a mixture of stainless steel tanks for brightness and pure fruit and some older Acacia barrels to build texture. It’s a beautifully crafted bottle that speaks to the potential of the grape in California and is absolutely perfect with grilled seafood, crunchy salads, or long nights on the patio.