2023 Livio Sassetti Pertimali Rosso di Montalcino Tuscany 750 ml

Livio Sassetti’s Pertimali is the definition of essential Brunello.

Years ago, Robert Parker declared, “If I had only one Brunello to drink, it would be Pertimali.” They remain one of the pinnacle producers in all of Montalcino—and their Rosso di Montalcino offers a taste of their unique brilliance without having to wait a decade for fireworks.

The Sassetti family has farmed some of Montalcino’s finest vineyards for more than a century, a longevity that’s given them an intimacy with the land that few of their peers can match. It’s a resolutely traditional estate, and it possesses a unique clone of Brunello planted nowhere else, as the family has selected their most treasured vines of it for their vineyard.

That site is on the hill of Montosoli, which Forbes called Montalcino’s “Grand Cru,” and it shows why Vinous said Sassetti’s wines are “some of the sleekest and purest of Montalcino.” They tap it for their Brunello and Brunello Riserva—which goes for upwards of $120—and also for their far more humble Rosso di Montalcino.

As a result, the Sassetti Rosso captures that personality and style, but it’s made to be more approachable at a young age, with a shorter maceration on the skins and then a year of aging in tank and then again in bottle. The resulting personality has made it a favorite of legendary restaurants like Quince, the MICHELIN three-star standout in San Francisco. The bright cherry fruit and vibrant acidity allows it to pair beautifully with meat dishes of all stripes, from squab to roast pork, and its touch of earth also makes it a beautiful match with mushrooms.

The 2023 vintage in Brunello di Montalcino delivered exceptional quality, with producers crafting Sangiovese of remarkable concentration and aromatic complexity. Despite reduced yields from summer heat, meticulous vineyard management resulted in wines displaying impressive structure and depth. Early tastings reveal a vintage that combines immediate approachability with the classic backbone for long-term cellaring, positioning ‘23 alongside recent acclaimed years like 2019 and 2020 for best-of-the-decade status.