NV Léguillette-Romelot Cepages d'Autrefois Brut Champagne 750 ml

Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Meunier account for 99.7% of all the vines in the Champagne. That means few enophiles and even Champagne-lovers have even heard about the other four grapes allowed to bear the appellation’s tag: Arbane, Petit Meslier, Pinot Blanc, and Fromenteau (Pinot Gris’ local name).

And finding a Champagne made with those grapes is even harder, which is why we were so delighted to secure some of Léguillette-Romelot’s Cépages d'Autrefois, which is produced from six of the seven allowable grape varieties.

This wine is based on Meunier, which thrives in the western part of Champagne that Léguillette-Romelot calls home—and thanks to new genetic research, no longer carries a “Pinot” in its name. Soft and boldly fruited, the grape pairs perfectly with the next most prevalent grape in the blend, Pinot Blanc. 

Pinot Blanc rewards dedicated growers with bright vibrancy and golden stone-fruit flavors, but must be farmed carefully as it’s susceptible to botrytis. Next in line is regal Pinot Noir, followed by the slow ripening Petit Meslier—a grape whose bright, acid-driven edge so intrigued Loire legend Didier Dagueneau that he planted the grape (illegally) in his home of Pouilly-Fumé.

Finally Chardonnay and the mysterious Arbane round out the blend. The lowest yielding grape of the lot, Arbane is notably hard to farm—which is why there weren’t even three acres left in all of Champagne a generation ago. But the small amount contributes a distinctive floral hint to this wine.

But the blending of these grapes would be academic if the wine weren’t so delicious—a real standout on our last trip to France. We waited for months for our allocation, and can’t wait for you to try it.