Madeira, made on the volcanic Portuguese-owned island of the same name, was originally an unfortified wine. To make Madeira, neutral grape spirits (i.e., pure alcohol) are added to stop the fermentation with the targeted amount of residual sugar and to stabilize the wine. Following this semi-pasteurization, the wine may be designated as vintage quality, and is matured accordingly-sometimes for as long as several decades in barrel.

The process of estufagem was developed to simulate the conditions of an extended journey by sea. Madeira's distinctive character comes from the fact that the wine has literally been cooked: heated over a period of months in casks or other vessels inside estufas, or hot houses, at temperatures as high as 130 degrees. This process makes Madeira wine virtually indestructible, as the wine is effectively pre-oxidized: 200-year-old wines can be full of life, and bottles can be recorked for weeks or even months with little or no ill effect.

Madeira marries high-toned aromas and flavors of burnt caramel, dried fruits, and chocolate with a pungent acidity that keeps even the sweetest versions from cloying. The sweetest Madeira wines, made from Malmsey (Malvasia) and Bual, are perfect endings to a meal. The driest style of Madeira, Sercial, is a lighter, quite penetrating, high-acid wine that makes an excellent aperitif. Madeira made from Verdelho is also dry but has more body and richer flavor than Sercial. Rainwater is a fairly dry and distinctly light style of Madeira. Generic Madeira, usually simply labeled dry, medium, sweet or rich, as well as wines called Bual-style or Malmsey-style, are usually made from the prolific and coarser Tinta Mole grape, and are best suited for sauce-making.