2013 Quartz Reef Pinot Noir Bendigo Single Vineyard Central Otago 750 ml

2013 Quartz Reef Pinot Noir Bendigo Vineyard — 94pt “Grand Cru”

We’d heard a lot about the Quartz Reef Pinot Noir project for some time, but until last week, we’d never managed to get our hands on a bottle. As we were dining with Bernard Retornaz, the Louis Latour exec whose knowledge of Burgundy borders on the encyclopedic, we decided to bring our lone sample bottle to dinner at Le Garage in Sausalito. To say the least — even in a lineup of Grand Crus— even Bernard agreed that Quartz Reef was not only all it’s cracked up to be, but this magnificent 2013 also gave the Louis Latour Cortons a run for the money. Here’s why.

About eight hours into the 13-hour flight from L.A. to Auckland, we swore we’d never fly coach again. We slept on and off for a couple hours, then watched Kevin Spacey bleed to death in “L.A. Confidential” — twice. By the time we touched down in New Zealand, we were sorely in need of a hot tub and/or a chiropractor. Instead, we nodded off in the airport and waited for the connecting flight to Central Otago.

If you’ve never traveled to Central Otago and enjoyed the southern island’s Tolkien-esque landscape, this is a trip you MUST take before an orthopedic surgeon counsels otherwise. Central Otago is a land of extremes. The seasons are sharply defined: Summer highs flirt with 90 degrees before the mercury plunges at nightfall, often dipping below 50.

That dramatic diurnal temperature shift above the deepest quartz deposit in New Zealand helps explain both the lavish wild-berry concentration and electrifying acid backbone of the 2013 Quartz Reef Pinot Noir Bendigo Vineyard — one of the most extraordinary Pinot Noirs ever to come out of New Zealand.

In 1996, Rudi Bauer, Trevor Scott, and John Perriam purchased this breathtaking property, eventually planting 74 acres to vines. It wasn’t long before the partners became enchanted by biodynamics, the rigorous farming protocol originally developed by Rudolf Steiner and practiced by Domaine de la Romanée-Conti in Burgundy. Bauer eschews the use of chemical herbicides and pesticides, favoring instead to “replenish” the soil each year with compost-and-herbal-teas concoctions prepared at the “Nerve Centre” on the lower vineyard. Pinot Noir roots spider meters into the quartz-laden substrata, quenching thirst on underground water reserves and shrugging off the dry summer heat.

The setting is magical. The climate is extreme. And as we and M. Retornaz quickly learned at Le Garage, in great vintages like 2013, Quartz Reef’s Bendigo Vineyard Pinot Noir gives Grand Cru Burgundy — Kistler, Kosta Browne, and Luc Morlet — a run for the money.

Handpicked on April 2nd and 3rd, each small batch was vinified separately according to clone, with a small percentage of whole bunches retained. A 5- to 7-days cold soak nursed out deep color before a cool, 24-day fermentation. Barrel fermentation was carried out in small French cooperage, one-quarter of which was new.

Vivid dark ruby in color. Lavish aromas of black raspberry, red plum, and black cherry, lightly touched with new-oak vanilla. Massively concentrated and absolutely voluptuous, yet due to the 40-degree diurnal temperature shift, still vibrant and light on its feet. The core is filled with black raspberry preserves and a splash of kirsch, finishing with superb energy and tension. 14% alcohol, but showing no sign whatsoever of heat. Drink now for the youthful hedonism of it all or lay down until the early 2020s.

Just 400 cases have been earmarked for the American market of one of the most critically acclaimed and sought-after Kiwi Pinot Noirs in years — 60 of which are headed for our warehouse in Napa. 94 points from James Suckling. 92+ from Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate.

$45 on release. A STEAL at $35 this morning ONLY on WineAccess. Shipping included on 4.