2014 Chad Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Coombsville 750 ml

Coombsville Starting Five: Pahlmeyer, Dunn, Quintessa, Paul Hobbs... and Chad?!?

When we sat down at Mustards, Chad’s eyes were like saucers. He had already finished half a plate of Ahi tuna crackers and was grinning from ear to ear. Our buddy looked much better than the last time we saw him, when we felt inclined to pick up the check after he’d sung a couple verses of the Cash Flow Blues. This time, Chad was singing a different tune.

“Coombsville,” he began. “You won’t believe this deal.” “Coombsville??!!” we fired back. “Yep. Coombsville.” Chad barely noticed that a grilled hanger steak had landed in front of him. He was too busy explaining why he was sky-high on Napa’s most recently designated AVA.

In the southeast corner of the valley, Coombsville’s singularity lies in its dark-fruited, superbly finessed Cabernets. The influence of the nearby San Pablo Bay creates a mild microclimate where temperatures rarely dip to frost-level, but stay 10 degrees cooler on average than the rest of Napa. The steady climate allows for longer hang-times, with harvests routinely extending into November. The results? Wines with all the Napa Valley richness imaginable, in a more balanced, nuanced package. High-toned beauties with tremendous aging potential.

As we carved up the rabbit with prosciutto and spring leeks, Chad went further. “There are just 10 barrels, the fruit is from the estate, but I better shut up because I’m under non-disclosure.” “How is pricing?” we asked. “That’s the best part,” Chad said. Then he gave us a number that caused us to spit a bite of rabbit right out onto the table. “For Coombsville??!!” we coughed. “Once again, yes, Coombsville.”

Then Chad explained how some of the biggest names upvalley — including Paul Hobbs, Pahlmeyer, Dunn, and Quintessa — are ALL making wines in Coombsville. “Under the winery’s reserve label — $200 a bottle. This is cut from the same cloth,” Chad scolded us. “Look at Paul Hobbs’ 2013 Nathan Coombs Estate Cab — 96 points from Parker, going for $400 a pop. The 2014 got 96-99 points, and will probably hit the $500 mark on release. You’ve got Caldwell going for $165, Maritas for $150… The days of ‘Coombswhere?’ are over.”

We were beginning to see his point.

Finally, Chad uncorked an unlabeled bottle that had stood between us the entire night. “Here’s what you’re paying for,” he told us. A hefty pour revealed deep garnet and a nose of black raspberry, plum, and smoke. The attack was juicy and lush with blackberry compote, crème de cassis, and cocoa filling the mid-palate. Complex, but serenely balanced with silky tannins and a hint of coffee bean into the long, fresh finish.

We looked at Chad, amazed. He grinned, “I bet you wish you had that rabbit back, don’t you?”

Our answer was swift: “Ok, we’re in.”

Compared to $200 under the winery’s reserve label, cut from the same cloth is Chad’s incredible take on Napa Valley’s hottest AVA. At $35/bottle, the 50 cases on offer today will disappear in a flash.