2014 Domaine Barmes-Buecher Gewurztraminer Steingrubler Grand Cru 750 ml

Barmès-Buecher Scion Produces 2014’s RACIEST Gewürztraminer

The first time we traveled to Alsace’s gingerbread hamlet of Wettolsheim to taste wines with a young, passionate François Barmès, we knew we’d be coming back — if only to see how the winegrower’s fanaticism would play out. That was 1992. Since then, we’ve returned nearly every year to sit down in the tasting room just across Rue de Gertrude and swish our way through Barmès-Buecher’s 30-35 annual micro-cuvées.

In 2011, our dear friend François passed away in a cycling accident. Losing him was like losing a brother with whom we’d spent just a few days per year over the course of 20 years. His son Maxime, who inherited his father’s warm gaze and high-wattage smile, took over operations with the help of his sister and mother. It turned out that son, like father, had the touch: After just two vintages, Maxime was praised by Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate as “extremely promising, young but stunningly reflected.” The publication would go on to rave that anyone seeking “the purest and most authentic expression of terroir, vintage, and grape variety” should be making a beeline for the wines of Barmès-Buecher. Words to make a parent proud.

While we were in awe of François’s talent, we didn’t always see eye to eye on style. His wines were unfailingly mesmerizing. But often, particularly in the early days, his maniacal search for ripeness often yielded wines that had an impossible mix of tremendous concentration, sweetness, and high alcohol. These were intellectual wines, excellent for a glass before dinner. But it would sometimes take us a week to polish a bottle off.

Maxime shared our belief that the American market — and eventually, the world market — would turn its back on residual sugar. As reds got richer and more concentrated, whites would have to become drier and more mineral. We believe the 2014 vintage, in which Maxime produced an absolutely ELECTRIC Gewürztraminer from their Steingrubler vineyard with ZERO residual sugar and a scintillating pH of 3.53, would have left François speechless.

The winter was dry and mild, leading to an early bud break in March and flowering in May that was sometimes two weeks ahead of schedule. Then Mother Nature turned the furnace on in June and July. Heavy rain in July created mildew problems for some of Maxime’s neighbors, but the homeopathic treatments that had long been in practice at Barmès kept disease at bay. August arrived, and with it came the cool temperatures that lent the 2014s their incredible, soaring, high-toned acidity.

By September, the limestone-rich soils of Steingrubler were bathed in turquoise-sky sunshine. Pristine, slow ripening continued into the last days of the month, allowing that tarte au citron core to blossom, and making for one of the more extraordinary and utterly exotic whites we’ve had in our 20+ years tasting Barmès-Buecher wines.

The 2014 Barmès-Buecher Gewürztraminer Steingrubler is brilliant golden to the rim. Intoxicating aromas of lychee, apple, and pink grapefruit, complicated by limestone minerality. Full and broad on entry, this is a Gewürztraminer of uncommon delicacy and elegance, infused with spicy flavors, a dash of white pepper, aromatic oils, and laced with bitter honey. The finish is electrifying — clean, pure, and long — with Riesling-like crispness and length.

A limited quantity was produced of this absolutely stunning Gewürztraminer. 480 bottles were imported for WineAccess members. Regular price of $44 — just $29 today. Want to taste one the raciest, most riveting whites of the year? Hit “Buy” now.