2014 Wildberry Estate Two Passions Cabernet Sauvignon Margaret River Australia 750 ml

“Winemaker grits his teeth and sets off on the ride of a lifetime.” That was the headline in the Sydney Morning Herald that broke the news of Wildberry Estate’s Damon Eastaugh surfing the biggest wave ever ridden in Australia, a 50-foot monster off the coast of Margaret River. 

“Nicely concentrated yet lively on the palate, offering juicy dark fruit flavors and a spicy touch of cracked pepper. Finishes spicy and long, featuring a hint of candied flowers and subtle tannins.” That was Vinous’ 90-point review of the bargain Margaret River Cabernet made by Eastaugh.

Not to choose sides, but we think this Cabernet is more impressive than any surfing triumph. Yes, we’re biased, but hear us out. 

Few Cabernet Sauvignons in the world deliver this kind of punch and authority anywhere near this price point. This is effectively a $45 Cabernet masquerading behind a $17 price tag. If you think we’re bluffing, consider that this just notched one of the most coveted restaurant placements in the country. Bern’s Steakhouse in Tampa, Florida has won the James Beard award for Outstanding Wine Program, and the restaurant’s collection consists of over half a million bottles from around the world, carefully selected to complement their perfectly char-grilled steaks. This year, Bern’s is replacing its by-the-glass Bordeaux with Eastaugh’s Margaret River Cabernet. 

The drive from Gracetown, where Eastaugh rode one of the biggest waves in history, to Wildberry Estate is a mere 15 minutes, and the surf-king-winemaker makes the trip routinely, beginning each day with a break-of-dawn surf session then heading to the vines to answer his other calling. 

Here, in Margaret River’s Wilyabrup sub-region, the cool maritime air produces Cabernet Sauvignons of immense depth and concentration balanced by freshness from vibrant acidity. The Two Passions Cabernet Sauvignon is 100% estate-grown and fermented in open-top tanks. Aging for 15 months in 20% new oak barrels adds a kiss of spice, while allowing the Margaret River Cabernet to do most of the talking. 

As Vinous wrote in its 90-point review, “Aromas of black currant, cherry and licorice are joined by smoke and floral accents as the wine opens up.” After six years of cellar slumber, tertiary flavors of leather and tobacco are also peeking through the fruit, adding complexity while suggesting more development to come in the next five years—an incredible feat considering its bargain price tag. 

Many Aussie Cabernets over-deliver when it comes to cost, but Eastaugh’s estate Cabernet takes things to another level. In Bordeaux or California this would be triple the price—one reason Bern’s is pouring it by the glass. Luckily we locked in our cases when we did. Next to a dry-aged porterhouse this is like heaven, and with a cellar as deep as theirs, we know Bern’s will be buying up every bottle they can get. We suggest you do the same.