2018 Champagne Michel Littiere Millesime Champagne 750 ml

We can’t say his name. So we’ll just call him Our Man in Champagne. 

A Master of Wine whose official residence is a chic two-story townhouse on the northeast edge of Paris, he can most often be found in Reims, Épernay, or speeding between the two in his vintage BMW 635csi. He’s a hardcore sartorialist with a trim beard and fine taste in wing tips, and he fits in—or at least makes fast friends—everywhere he goes.

We met him years ago at a trade show in Dusseldorf. He’s got his hand in about a half-dozen aspects of the wine business, and unless we count his monthly column (the reason he must stay anonymous), we don’t hear from him too often. 

But this man has an unerring nose for undiscovered Champagne. We’re forever indebted to him for leading us to all-time member-favorite Grumier, and we drop everything whenever his number comes up. Good thing we do, because that’s how we were introduced to Champagne Michel Littiere. 

Champagne Michel Littière is the quintessential grower-Champagne, a hidden gem nestled in the village of Oeuilly, on the left bank of the Vallée de la Marne. Dating back to 1970, this third-generation récoltant-manipulant (grower-producer) tends to just 15 acres of vines spread across 25 meticulously managed plots on the hillsides of Oeuilly. They’ve earned five consecutive selections in the Gault & Millau Champagne guide.

LIttiere only makes their Millesime in exceptional years, and the 2018—comprising roughly equal amounts of Pinot Meunier, Pinot Noir, and Chardonnay—hails from one of the best seasons in memory. It bursts from the glass with elegant and layered aromas, opening with lemon curd, white peach, and acacia blossom before giving way to toasted brioche and crushed hazelnut. On the palate, the wine is vibrant and finely textured, weaving orchard fruit and citrus zest through a framework of chalky minerality and subtle creaminess. A thread of saline freshness carries through to the long, graceful finish, where hints of almond, pastry, and wet stone linger.