2019 Sombrero Cabernet Sauvignon Valle de Uco Mendoza 750 ml

Argentine winemakers used to talk about grapes, but now they talk about terroir—and the 2019 Sombrero Cabernet Sauvignon comes from one of the most exciting terroirs in the country.

Perched in Gualtallary in the Uco Valley, the extremely high-altitude Andean foothills form a crucible for Cabernet Sauvignon. The old vines planted there are tested by windy, exposed elevations that reach up to 5000 feet. The stony, alluvial soil—stratified with layers of limestone and sand—gives the Cabernet bushes just enough nutrients to survive amid these challenging conditions, and limited moisture sends the grapes’ concentration into hyperdrive.

Under the care of consulting winemaker José “Pepe” Galante—who’s been called a “winemaking legend” by Master of Wine Tim Atkin and “Argentina’s greatest winemaker” by legendary vintner Paul Hobbs—those grapes translate to a brilliant 93-point Cabernet that represents one of the smartest buys on the market.

Galante helps wring every ounce of terroir-inflected intensity from the grapes into the glass. His influence can be felt in the tense, taut texture of the wine, which manages to feel rich yet free of any excess fat. Five months in new French oak lend ample polish and structure to classic Cabernet flavors of roasted espresso beans, purple flowers, and grilled meat. A streak of refreshing acidity runs through the palate, lending energetic lift to balanced tannins and savory accents of fennel and spice.

Founded in the 1970s, Huentala (the winery behind Sombrero) was one of the first to plant their flag in Gualtallary, and to this day they’re one of the best. Their Cabernet overdelivers with every sip—it’s a new Argentine legend in the making.