2020 Domaine de Bila-Haut Occultum Lapidem Cotes du Roussillon Villages Latour de France 750 ml

There is one “100-point Winemaker” to rule them all in France. 

His name is Michel Chapoutier, and he has racked up, at latest count, nearly SEVENTY perfect scores.

The 2020 Domaine de Bila-Haut Occultum Lapidem is what happens when Chapoutier, the Rhône Valley’s most dynamic and energetic winemaker, gets his hands on ancient Syrah and Grenache vines in Roussillon, farms them biodynamically, and swings for the fences. 

If you’re typically drawn to Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the Occultum Lapidem—whose Latin name translates to “hidden gem”—will thrill you. Awarding it 93–95 points, Jeb Dunnuck made this release a standout in the quality-to-price ratio contest, saying “its purity and balance are what really set it apart.” 

In 1999, the legendary Chapoutier stumbled upon a neglected 185-acre property in Roussillon’s Agly Valley, about as close as French vines get to the Spanish border. The soils were a rugged mix of flaky schist, gneiss, and clay, and he was smitten by the wildness of the slopes and the vineyards bracketed by scrappy brush, sparse trees, and wild herbs. There was a perfume in the air that he couldn’t get out of his head: a mix of smoky rosemary, thyme, juniper, lavender, and olive. 

He purchased the estate, determined to bring it back to life—and he has succeeded wildly. His Roussillon wines absolutely obliterate the expectations that come with their modest price, and 21 years after he first set eyes on his property, Mother Nature served up an exceptional growing season there. Chapoutier slammed it out of the park with an old-vine blend of Syrah, Grenache, and Mourvèdre from the village of Latour de France. It’s a performance worthy of Chapoutier’s reputation.