11 a.m.: Brilliant green-gold in hue. Pungent aromas of white and yellow peach, anise, and white pepper, smoky and vibrant. Broad and generous on the attack yet tightly wound, richly textured and layered, infused with juicy apple and peach, finishing with great length and sappiness.
9 p.m.: Over dinner, the wine began to unwind, adding weight, adding mineral complexity, letting go of its early ‘tightness,’ loosening up and filling out. Terrifically sturdy, the finish goes on forever, arguing elegantly for a 15- to 20-year stay in a cool cellar.