Possibly the best vintage for white Burgundy since 1985
Dominique Lafon runs one of the most mythic estates not just in Burgundy but in the entire known wine universe — Domaine des Comtes Lafon. The domaine created by Dominique’s great-grandfather Jules Lafon is the only one in Burgundy with holdings in all six of the best Premier Crus in Meursault AND a few rows of the world’s most expensive vineyard: Montrachet. You’ll find the wines of Comtes Lafon at practically every 3-star Michelin restaurant in the world at prices that can make a Saudi prince blush.
When Dominique is not at the family estate in Meursault, he’s either at his family’s other domaine in the Mâconnais, Les Héritiers des Comtes Lafon; consulting for Evening Land Vineyards in Oregon’s Willamette Valley; or spending time at his new 11-acre estate simply called Domaine Dominique Lafon.
Domaine Dominique Lafon’s official status is that of a négociant, but the wines are from vineyards which Dominique owns or farms and bottles on a separate estate just down the road from Comtes Lafon — all with the same principles of organic viticulture and biodynamics as at Comtes Lafon and vinified with the same care and attention to quality that has prompted many, including Decanter Magazine, to call Dominique “the world’s best producer of white wine.”
Dominique Lafon produces minuscule amounts of this Bourgogne Blanc in each vintage. The grapes are sourced from two upper-hillside parcels: the clay and pebbly soils of “Le Limozin” in Meursault, and the gray and sandy soils of the “Les Femelottes” site in Puligny-Montrachet — both featuring vines an average of 30 years old.
For elite white Burgundies like Domaine Lafon, small-crop years like 2014 raise the bar on complexity and richness a notch or two. Wine Spectator rated the vintage 93-96 points — possibly the best vintage for white Burgundy since 1985! Antonio Galloni’s Vinous put it plainly in his report: “For lovers of classic white Burgundies, 2014 is clearly a vintage to buy.”
The 2014 Bourgogne Blanc is a masterwork, a poster child for such a storied vintage. Straw-yellow in color and boasting an expressive nose layered with aromas of orchard fruits, lemon oil, white flowers, and flinty minerality. The palate is equal parts stone-fruit fleshiness and orchard-fruit crispness, buttressed by mouth-watering acidity. More citrus and white floral notes are echoed on the finish, which is tinged with crushed-stone minerality. Enjoy now through 2021.
The Meursaults and Montrachets from Lafon are the stuff of legend. Also legendary are their 4-digit price-tags. Today, WineAccess members get another shot at Lafon’s genius — for just $39 With grapes sourced from “the world’s best producer of white wine,” from Lafon-owned vineyards and personally made by Dominique himself? Only 300 bottles up for grabs, shipping included on 4. Our last allocation from this acclaimed producer disappeared before the day was up; you make the call.
Excellent light white burgundy. Great for the price
7-3-17: Wow, this is great! Very crisp, pure and high toned. Really 4.5 stars. Livelier than the 2015. Amazing for Bourgogne Blanc. Better than many premier crus in my opinion, and the last glass was the best, after about 3 hours. This is a revelation, and I need to have it with something special. Maybe shrimp or chicken in a cream sauce would be a suitable foil. Super wine!
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