Rías Baixas, in the far northwest of Spain, doesn't look like a postcard from the land of bullfights and Jamon Iberico. With its lush green hills cut through with rivers and the rolling coastal landscape, the area has more in common with County Cork than Campo de Borja. But for us, what sets Rías Baixas apart from the rest of Spain is the wines: This is white wine country, and it's where some of the best, most interesting, most seafood-friendly bottlings are produced.

And the best—and most oceanic—place to grow grapes in the area is the Val do Salnés. Stiff ocean breezes take the sting out of the bountiful Spanish sun, infusing grapes with sea-spray freshness and oyster-shell salinity. The poor soils drain effortlessly, all but eliminating the risk of mildew.

It's where the most iconic Albariño in the world is grown: Forjas del Salnés' Areas de Arra ($170), Do Ferreiro Cepas Vellas ($85), and Raúl Pérez's Sketch ($200). Casa Monte Pío has made wine in Salnés since 1979, long before Rías Baixas burst onto the world stage.

They work the same way the very best producers in the area do: Their Raxeira bottling is harvested well into September to ensure full physiological ripeness, and the grapes are picked into small boxes that only hold about 30 pounds each—ensuring that the fruit is absolutely pristine when it arrives at the winery. The grapes are pressed gently and then fermented with their native yeasts in a mixture of stainless steel tanks and amphorae.

The result is an Albariño of absolutely stunning quality, especially considering the price. Don't miss it.

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