There are very few outstanding Barolo producers that sommeliers and collectors flock to, regardless of vintage or cuvée. The legendary Giacomo Borgogno & Figli is one of them.

Established in the 1700s, Borgogno is the prestigious and pedigreed Barolo that every serious cellar needs. The spice-scented, magnificently structured 2020 builds on a legacy that’s entwined with the core of this region’s history and the soul of the country itself.

Owner Oscar Farinetti, the founder of Eataly, and his son Andrea have honored that legacy by expanding vineyards while upholding old-school practices: fermentation in cement with native yeasts, long macerations, aging in large Slavonian oak barrels. “The overall approach is best described as enlightened traditional,” wrote Vinous founder Antonio Galloni. “These aren’t the chunky, rustic Borgogno Barolos of the past, but rather super-polished, sexy wines with tons of finesse and appeal.”

Giacomo Borgogno & Figli’s Barolo is a must-have in any vintage—but the 2020 escalates things. By drawing on five estate vineyards that rank among the finest in Barolo—Cannubi, Cannubi San Lorenzo, Fossati, Liste, and San Pietro delle Viole—this bottle captures Barolo at its best. The aromas are plentiful, with dried Morello cherry, black tea, and lush red roses, along with tobacco and camphor. The palate is bold, driven by a core of dark fruit wrapped in spice, with stern tannins that carry a long finish.

You simply can’t beat this.

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