The Lelarge family has been domaine-bottling since 1930, but right around the time this wine was made, huge changes to their farming practices were underway. Back in 1990, husband Dominique Lelarge and wife Dominique Pugeot resolved to abandon all herbicides and pesticides in their vineyards. Their winery was certified organic by ECOCERT in 2010, and these days they’re fully biodynamic, certified by Demeter, one of only 44 properties in Champagne so accredited.

This wine came to us from our genial friend and colleague Clémence Lelarge-Pugeot—she’s Dominique and Dominique’s eldest daughter, and she also happens to live in Sonoma County. She’s landed multiple placements at MICHELIN-starred restaurants, fashionable tables like The Plumed Horse and Angler. Her efforts have made this biodynamic grower an “in-the-know” house up and down the West Coast.

The Marne Valley town of Vrigny has become very well known for its Pinot Meunier. This is in part thanks to Egly-Ouriet, but also due to the efforts of the Lelarge-Pugeots. The Les Charmes de Vrigny is their homage to their village, and comprises 50% Meunier, 30% Pinot Noir, and 20% Chardonnay.

The nose offers lifted layers of citrus peel, baked apple, and brioche, interwoven with notes of wet stone, toasted hazelnut, and salinity. On the palate, it is graceful yet articulate—bright lemon curd and orchard fruit cut through a core of chalky minerality and soft, lees-derived creaminess. Subtle undercurrents of savory bread crust, dried herbs, and a touch of autumn orchard linger through the long, vibrant finish. A “wow” Champagne for sure, excellent for any special night.