
Dunnuck: “Heavenly wine…that you probably couldn't have too much of in the cellar”

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2020 Chateau Les Carmes Haut-Brion Pessac-Leognan 750 ml
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A Standout Vintage Hits a Resurgent Les Carmes
Les Carmes Haut-Brion challenges its First Growth neighbor Haut-Brion as the best wine in Pessac-Léognan in the 2020 vintage, with a critical consensus that’s nearly unmatched: TWO 100-point scores, plus a round of other bombshell reviews. Antonio Galloni called it “simply magnificent… the most exceptionally vivid, breathtaking orchestra imaginable.” Jeb Dunnuck declared it a “heavenly wine… that you probably couldn't have too much of in the cellar.”
Les Carmes Haut-Brion has long been one of the sleeping giants of Bordeaux.
Their vineyards are less than 200 yards from Haut-Brion itself, but for years the château was inconsistent. That started to change in 2010, when the Pichet family bought the estate and shattered the record for the price of land in the process at 3.8 million euros per hectare. The cellar was renovated a few years later. With that kind of investment, expectations soared. So has the quality of the wine.
Most of that improvement has been due to technical director Guillaume Pouthier, who has established himself as one of Bordeaux’s very best winemakers. It starts with strict selection of vineyard blocks—nearly 75% of their acreage is declassified into their second wine—and no expense is spared once the grapes hit the winery.
There’s careful sorting in both the vineyard and the winery—as you’d expect from any château of this caliber—but Pourthier’s magic is really in his experimental nature and his intuitive touch with the grapes. He used nearly 55% whole clusters in the vinification of the 2020 Les Carmes, which is a daring move in Bordeaux but was possible because of the warm weather and lignification in the Cabernet Franc and Merlot. He’s also experimented with aging in larger oak foudres and even some amphorae—confident that if the lots in question don’t meet his standards he has the financial freedom to declassify them to the estate’s second wine.
The 2020 vintage was a warm season that Wine Advocate declared “produced brilliant wines” with push fruit and silky tannins, and the 2020 Les Carmes is undoubtedly at the top of the class.
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