The young but wise Jean-Marie Fourrier, who took over at Domaine Fourrier in 1994, makes perfumed, aromatically precise Burgundies in a traditional fashion, using limited new oak and bottling his wines later than most of his neighbors. With a history starting four generations ago in Gevrey Chambertin, Fourrier also has holdings in Morey-St.-Denis and Chambolle-Musigny. Holdings are scattered up and down slopes, ranging from grand cru to village level. Fourrier insists on using fruit from only the most mature vines in his vineyard. He routinely sells Pinot Noir harvested from vines under 30 years of age to local négociants, sacrificing two out of nine available hectares, all in the name of quality.