Syrah that is grown on the steeply terraced vineyards of Cote-Rotie yields perfumed, seductive, sappy wines that typically show notes of raspberry, violet, black pepper, bacon fat, smoked meat, and spices. Modern producers tend to age a good percentage of their wines in barriques (the small 225-liter barrels routinely used in Bordeaux and Burgundy)--often including a high percentage of new oak--but some traditionalists use older and frequently much larger barrels customary to this region within the Rhone. In style, Cote-Rotie wine is usually more delicate and scented, like Burgundy, than the brooding, slower-to-unfold Hermitage. Producers in Cote-Rotie are legally entitled to add up to 20% Viognier to their blends (this variety can add aromatic lift and perfume), but few use more than 5%, for fear of compromising the ageability of their wines.

Cote-Roties are normally at their best 8 to 15 years after the vintage, but top wines from the strongest vintages can offer longer aging potential.

Along with Bordeaux and Burgundy, Rhone Valley wines are some of the world's greatest red wines. But keep in mind that the Rhone Valley is really two distinct regions. The Northern Rhone produces powerful, aromatically complex and ageworthy red wines, generally in very limited quantities, from the noble Syrah grape. Traditionally, most Northern Rhone red wines have carried alcohol in the moderate 12% to 13% range, but warm growing seasons like 1997, 1999, and especially 2003, have yielded considerably richer, more powerful, and more alcoholic examples.

The Southern Rhone is a nearly bottomless source of somewhat more rustic and often even richer blends based on the high-alcohol Grenache grape, in a style that can only be described as more ""southern"" in flavor--that is, Rhone wines offering a richer mouth feel, a more roasted and sometimes liqueur-like fruit character, and notes of wild herbs and spices. Alcohol levels of 15% or higher are not uncommon in the ripest vintages. More than 90% of the Rhone Valley's total production comes from the South, and this area is one of the world's great sources of red wine value.

The Northern Rhone Valley also produces the apotheosis of Viognier, an exotically scented white variety that has been widely planted on several continents in recent years by growers hoping to capitalize on strong worldwide demand. Less exciting than Viognier are the other white wines from the Rhone Valley, most of which are blends based on Marsanne and Roussanne in the North, and Grenache Blanc and less distinguished indigenous varieties in the South. Most of these Rhone wines are characterized by notes of honey, earth, and minerals more than by real freshness of fruit; too often they show more texture and alcoholic warmth than flavor.

France is the fountainhead of the grape varieties most craved by North American wine drinkers: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc. In fact, these grapes are widely referred to as "international" varieties because they have been planted and imitated all over the world. Of course, one of the most exciting developments in wine over the past generation has been the growth of intriguing local styles of these varieties, such as Pinot Noir in Oregon and New Zealand, or Syrah in Australia, South Africa, and California. But most cosmopolitan wine-lovers -- and even winemakers -- would agree that French wines are the archetypes.

France enjoys the perfect geographic position for the production of a wide range of fine wines. Its relatively northerly location ensures long hours of daylight during the summer months and an extended growing season, allowing for the slow and steady accumulation of flavor in the grapes. Although the country as a whole enjoys a temperate climate, conditions can vary significantly within a limited land mass: cool and Atlantic-influenced; continental, with very cold winters and hot summers; warm and Mediterranean, with wet winters and dry summers.

Wines of France

France began classifying its best French wine-producing sites more than 200 years ago. Its detailed appellation controlee system, designed in the 1930s, has served as the model for classification systems adopted by other countries in Europe and elsewhere. Appellation d'Origine Controlee (often abbreviated to AOC), means "controlled place name" and is the consumer's assurance of the origin and authenticity of any French wine whose label bears these words.

AOC laws, administered by France's INAO (Institut National des Appellations d'Origine), establish the geographic limits of each appellation, permissable grape varieties and methods of production, minimum alcohol level, and maximum crop level (or yield) per hectare. Just beneath the highest category of appellation controlee is the comparatively tiny category of VDQS (Vins Delimites de Qualite Superieure), wines which may eventually be promoted to AC status and which are most commonly found in the Loire Valley and the Southwest. The third category is Vins de Pays, or "country wines". This latter category gives producers, including some of the more adventurous French wine growers, an escape route from the straitjacket of AC regulation in terms of higher permitted yields and less restrictive geography, a wider range of legal grape varieties, and fewer restrictions as to method of production and minimum age of vines. Finally, at the bottom of the pyramid, there are Vins de Table, or simple "table wines."

And yet, despite France's illustrious wine history and the fact that it is still the world's leading producer of wine, the country is struggling to compete in the international market. Today, France faces fierce competition from New World wine producers. U.S. imports of French wines actually declined, in number ofcases, between the end of 2002 and early 2006 -- this during a period when overall wine consumption in the U.S. grew by more than 50 percent.

Today, the French government is agonizing over how to help French wine producers, who are also facing homegrown challenges such as changing domestic drinking habits and an aggressive anti-alcohol abuse program. Wine producers in some regions of France are coming to view the AC system itself as an obstacle to selling wines to North America and other important export markets. Among the changes being considered are loosening restrictions on what can be planted where and on how wines can be made, and allowing producers in certain areas to indicate the grape variety or varieties on their labels -- rather than simply the place name, which is less meaningful to consumers in many of France's key export markets.

While the grape is currently grown throughout the world, the most elegant Syrahs still come from the Northern Rhone valley, particularly the appellations of Côte Rôtie, Cornas, and Hermitage. Here, steep, terraced vineyards help produce full-bodied, intense, tannic wines loaded with white pepper and red fruit.

In the vineyard, Syrah is largely cooperative- vines are productive, but not overly vigorous. Skins are thick, helping the grape withstand more extreme climatic conditions. The climatic conditions in the Northern Rhone are especially conducive to the growth of the grapes, for they require heat to attain full ripeness. Still, even slight overripeness can cause the grape to lose its varietal character. In the Northern Rhone, Syrahs are all oak aged for some period of time. While historically, this aging has occurred in large, old oak casks, small oak barrels like those used in Bordeaux and Burgundy are currently gaining in popularity. Wines from the top appellations, Hermitage and Côte Rôtie, will have the most pronounced oak character.

But these wines can be shockingly expensive; collectors know that they have the alcohol, tannin and concentration to age for years, and the price reflects this awareness. The most famous producers in Hermitage are Chapoutier and Chave. In Côte Rôtie (where many of the wines are actually co-fermented with a small amount of the white grape Viognier), look for Guigal and Jasmin.

Retreating a little bit on the price spectrum, the appellations of Cornas, St. Joseph and Crozes-Hermitage produce high-quality wines, albeit with less body, tannin, and intensity from the top appellations. In Cornas, look to Auguste Clape. For St. Joseph, Chapoutier and Jaboulet are especially reliable. The top producers from Hermitage also have a presence in Crozes-Hermitage, but also look for wines from Alain Graillot.

Syrah retains a presence farther down the Rhone Valley, but in the southern Rhone, the Syrah tends to be more opulent, and less structured. Here it does not stand on its own and is frequently blended with other Rhone varieties like Grenache and Mourvedre, most notably in the appellation of Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Similarly, it retains a key place as a key blending grape in wines from Coteaux de Languedoc.

In California vineyards, as part of the general rise in plantings of Rhone varietals, the presence of Syrah has dramatically increased in the last fifteen years. The problem is that these wines are often made with less finesse in California than in France. In too many cases, we find wines that are just too much-- too much sugar, too much alcohol, too much extraction. But looking carefully for more restrained examples can yield great dividends. The Central Coast has a number of winemakers that show discipline and keep the intensity of their wines in check; consider Jaffurs Wine Cellars, Beckmen Vineyards, and Qupe.

In Australia, where the variety is known as Shiraz, the greatest examples come from the Barossa Valley. Here, the vines were first planted in the mid-1800s, and some old vines continue to produce fruit for terrifically concentrated wines. As a general trend, Barossa Shiraz will be richer, and show more stewed-fruit flavors than Syrah from the Rhone. Similarly powerful Shiraz also comes from McLaren Vale. Two Hands makes terrifically concentrated bottlings from both regions, and Penfolds is another reliable producer of burly Shiraz. While Australia's reputation rests on intense, concentrated Shiraz, more understated examples come from Hunter Valley and the Heathcote region, including wines from the producer Heathcote II.

Syrah pairs well with red meats, spicy pizzas, and and other savory meat dishes. These dishes provide an excellent complement to the peppery flavors and heft of the wine.